New article: A guide to Nablus

Posted 22 Feb 2012 — by Sarah Irving
Category Bradt Guide to Palestine, Features, Food, Palestine, Travel, Writing

From Red Pepper magazine, February 2012

Leaving behind Ramallah and Bethlehem, with their expat communities and religious tour groups, what of the West Bank’s other cities? Sleepy desert Jericho? Hebron, struggling to maintain its culture and economy under the weight of soldiers and fanatical settlers? Jenin, with its pioneering fair trade organisations, understated and beautiful old city and the defiant Freedom Theatre in the heart of its refugee camp? Invited to pick a ‘radical city’, I chose Nablus. Nablus, in the northern West Bank, is one of Palestine’s largest cities. It was once an important stopping-point on trade routes between Jaffa or Jerusalem and Damascus…

The full article is here.

Khader Adnan

Posted 19 Feb 2012 — by Sarah Irving
Category Food, Middle East, Palestine, Politics

For the last week or so, I’ve woken up most days wondering if Khader Adnan is still alive. Adnan is a from a small village near the West Bank city of Jenin; his pregnant wife and two young daughters still live there. He was seized from his home by Israeli soldiers in December last year and has been on hunger strike ever since.

Like so many Palestinian prisoners Adnan is being held under the old British Mandate emergency measure called ‘administrative detention’, under which the Israeli authorities imprison thousands of Palestinians every year without charge. As of today, Khader Adnan has been refusing food for 64 days. Reports say he is in a coma, but in one of those grotesqueries at which the Israelis seem to excel, is still shackled to his hospital bed. Adnan is – to the best of my knowledge – still alive at this moment, but the comparisons with Bobby Sands and the other Maze Prison Republican hunger strikers of 1981 are already flying around the internet.

Amnesty International has a petition for the release of Khader Adnan and an end to the use of administrative detention by the State of Israel here.

‘Snookered’ by Tamasha Theatre Co

Posted 19 Feb 2012 — by Sarah Irving
Category Art, Britain, Reviews

In an act of extreme decadence I seem to have taken almost two whole days off and spent them with this bloke I dimly recall being married to. One of the things we did during this unwonted period of leisure time was saw Snookered, the debut play by former Middlesbrough cabbie Ishy Din, currently being toured by the Tamasha Theatre Co.
This fast-paced, funny, bitter, thoughtful play centres on four young men who’ve grown up and gone to school together in an unspecified northern town. They have reached the age where their lives have diverged, and now they meet up once a year on the birthday of a dead friend. But as they down pints and shots and lay into one another’s pool skills, the growing differences between the friends are laid bare and some difficult – perhaps unbearable – truths are revealed.
The four figures may start off as familiar archetypes – the loudmouthed, puffa-jacket-wearing taxi driver who’s stayed in his hometown; the dishy guy with the nice jeans and Adidas satchel who’s followed a job and a white partner to London; the solemn latecomer who his friends suspect is ‘getting religious’ and the awkward, geeky one who still works in his dad’s shop and is miserably aware that he’s always been slightly despised by the rest of the gang. But behind each of the stereotypes are the complexities that make them into real people. Slang terms and references to themes such as arranged marriage, observance of Islamic food and drink rules and experiences of racism may situate the men’s lives within the British-Pakistani community, but other issues – jobs, parents, IVF, relationships, infidelity and the stifling atmosphere of small-town Britain – will resonate well beyond any one community.
Ishy Din’s writing and characterisation are outstanding for a first play, the casting is spot-on, the directing tight and the staging excellent. What more could you ask for? Snookered’s brief Edinburgh run is, sadly, over, but it is playing in Wolverhampton, London, Southampton and Oxford. Well worth seeing.

More reviews and interviews with the writer and director from:
The Metro
TV Bomb
Theatre Voice
The List

New article: New documentary presents shallow view of Arafat

Posted 01 Feb 2012 — by Sarah Irving
Category Film, Palestine, Politics, Reviews

Electronic Intifada, 1st February 2012

“What would you sacrifice for what you believe in?” This is the tagline to a recently-launched 80-minute biopic of the late Palestinian leader Yasser Arafat, the first in a series of documentaries entitled The Price of Kings, from London-based filmmakers Spirit Level. The series claims to “reveal the sacrifices made by some of the world’s most influential, controversial and powerful leaders,” offering “unrivaled access to the protagonists and close family members at the heart of modern history.”

The full article is here.

A trailer for the film can be seen here.

Conserving the Ain Ghazal statues

Posted 12 Jan 2012 — by Sarah Irving
Category Art, Middle East, Travel

From the Visit Madaba twitter feed, this is an intriguing (if you have archaeology geek tendencies) video on the conservation of the Ain Ghazal statues from Jordan. These wonderful, spooky, atmospheric figures (some of which are in the archaeological museum in Amman, some in the BM and some in the Louvre) are over 9,000 years old and, if memory serves me right, pre-date fired pottery in the area, but are made of some kind of gypsum (like plaster).

Bradt Palestine reviewed in Wanderlust

Posted 11 Jan 2012 — by Sarah Irving
Category Books, Bradt Guide to Palestine, Palestine, Reviews, Travel, Writing

A lovely review of the Bradt Guide to Palestine appears in the February 2012 issue of Wanderlust, so many thanks to the amazing Dervla Murphy (I never thought when I was enjoying books such as A Place Apart or In Ethiopia with a Mule that one day she’d be reviewing mine… Wow!).
The full review isn’t available online, but Murphy says, amongst other things:

“During the guidebook industry’s recent rapid expansion, much writing has become drearily predictable. Not so Sarah Irving’s: open her Palestine and you’ll see what I mean… [her] decade-long intimacy with every corner of Palestine, with most aspects of its ancient culture and with the often confusing twists and turns of its 20th-century political misfortunes give Palestine a distinctive flavour. While adroitly avoiding the polemicist role… Written with verve, clarity and full of stimulating background details, Sarah Irving’s book will delight anyone interested in Palestine – whether they are planning a visit or not”.

Can’t wish for more than that, can you?

Leila Khaled biography – on Pluto’s website

Posted 08 Jan 2012 — by Sarah Irving
Category Books, Middle East, Palestine, Politics, Women and Feminism, Writing

I noticed today that my Leila Khaled biography is now available for pre-order from Pluto Books’ own website. It’s not actually out until May this year, but at least it means that discounted copies are available to order in advance, and (cf Amazon), the cover is now out in the big wide world. More on the book and the background to it is also available here.

Farewell 2011

Posted 31 Dec 2011 — by Sarah Irving
Category Books, Writing

2011 has been a year of considerable highs and lows on a personal front as well as on the world scale. We still, of course, don’t know where the Arab revolutions will go and what the legacy of the amazing women and men who have stood up to dictatorships will be – whether their dreams will be realised or wther they will fall victim to local extremism, Western imperialist intervention or the many other forces pushing them one way or another.
On a smaller scale, this year has seen some sad losses. Notable amongst them were the murders this spring of Juliano Mer Khamis of the Freedom Theatre in Jenin and Vittorio Arrigoni of Free Gaza.

Flamboyant, charismatic and sometimes controversial, both Juliano and Vittorio were cut down in the prime of life. Not so George Whitman, a more recent loss (and someone to whom the same adjectives might be applied). He will be sadly missed by many, but at 98 George at least got a good innings, and died at home in his flat above the wonderful Shakespeare & Company, his legendary bookshop on the left bank of the Seine.
I loved Shakespeare & Co, and had read a bit of its history, but would probably never have met George had it not been for my husband, who had at one time been a ‘tumbleweed’ – one of the travellers and booklovers who got free accommodation on the sofas and beds of the shop in return for helping around the place. Indeed, husband once took George to see the Chomsky & Herman documentary Manufacturing Consent (“all 18 fucking hours of it”, mutters husband in the background. “It’s the same clowns who made The Corporation. Far too long”. Never one to mince words, Mr Irving). So a couple of times on trips to Paris I got to meet George in his book-filled apartment and hear a little of his recollections of the shop – memories I treasure. George’s daughter Sylvia is doing an amazing job of keeping Shakespeare & Co going and indeed, with the literature festivals she now runs, taking it from strength to strength.
There were, of course, many obituaries of George, including those in the Guardian and Open Culture, and Jeanette Winterson’s recollections of him.

Cat, another late lamented inhabitant of Shakespeare & Co

Shafiq al-Hout – My Life in the PLO

Posted 26 Dec 2011 — by Sarah Irving
Category Books, Middle East, Palestine, Politics, Reviews

Shafiq al-Hout
My Life in the PLO: The Inside Story of the Palestinian Struggle
Pluto Press 2011

As I had depressingly reinforced to me earlier this year in Melbourne, some people don’t believe that knowing any background to an issue is of use in understanding or being politically committed to it. I disagree, and given that few of us want to read analytical tomes for fun, I reckon that memoirs are an interesting and engaging way to learn about political events and, in cases such as My Life in the PLO, by the late Shafiq al-Hout, to get a ‘warts and all’ look behind the historical scenes.

Al-Hout, born in Jaffa and one of the hundreds of thousands of Palestinians forced to flee by the foundation of the state of Israel in 1948, was a major player in Palestinian diaspora politics for decades. But as a representative of the PLO and a journalist, he remained to one extent or another apart from the factions which dominated the PLO, and his memoirs include both praise and criticism for parties, armed organisations and individuals such as Yasser Arafat, George Habash, Fatah, Al-Saiqa, the PFLP and a plethora of less well-known figures and groups.

For many readers his take on the character of Yasser Arafat will be of most interest. Here, Al-Hout maintains an interesting balance, describing Abu Ammar through perhaps the first two-thirds of the book with affection, respect, and in his own words, ‘love’. He recounts humorous anecdotes about Walid Khalidi’s attempts to persuade Arafat to shave off his famous stubble before his 1974 speech in front of the UN General Assembly, and also shows a tenderness for ‘Arafat the man’, unmarried and apparently rather lonely for much of his long career. But despite his description of Arafat as a person always forgiven by those around him, no matter what he did, Al-Hout’s later writings on Abu Ammar gradually become bitter and regretful, portraying a paranoid, autocratic leader in the 1990s and beyond who failed to address the growing corruption and complacence within the exiled PLO leadership in Tunis, and who made serious political errors – greatest amongst them the Oslo Accords – because of his egotistical refusal to accept advice and discussion. Al-Hout’s picture of the last 15 or 20 years of Arafat’s leadership of the PLO chime with the accounts of writers such as Hanan Ashrawi and Raja Shehadeh, who have painted a picture of Fatah and PLO leaders in Tunis who were out of touch with the needs of Palestinians living in the West Bank, in Gaza and in the camps of Lebanon:

“Abu Ammar could at least have told me that there was an attempt to work through another channel [Oslo] that offered more hope than Washington, and that it was in our national interest to maintain secrecy until the time was right. That was possible, and perfectly legitimate in the diplomatic world. But it was quite unacceptable to keep things under the table, because of their lack of confidence in the correctness of the steps being taken.
I decided to start reducing my visits to Tunis as much as possible. Whenever I did go, I made sure not to stay long, preferring always to return to Beirut, despite the many problems there. There were financial strains on the PLO and a continuous failure to cover our basic expenses, for example the salaries of the martyrs’ families, or the costs for the treatment of chronic medical cases, such as open heart surgery and kidney dialysis, treatments perhaps considered too much of a luxury for Palestinian refugees.”
[p269]

Shafiq Al-Hout died in 2009, but his comments on Arafat’s descent into authoritarian egotism seem fairly prescient in the light of the fates of various other Middle Eastern political leaders in the last year:

‘Abu Ammar was of course not the only Arab leader with this affliction. Several others have contracted this malady in our time: some have already paid for their mistake and fallen, while others remain in power. Their time has not yet come. There is a popular saying in Arabic: “Pharaoh, who made you a pharaoh?” [Translator’s note: the well-known implied response is: “Because no one stopped me”.’

Al-Hout is also very open about other aspects of Palestinian history which many versions gloss over or skirt around: he doesn’t shy away from talking about the internecine conflict between Fatah and Syrian-backed groups such as Al-Saiqa in northern Lebanon in the early 1980s. I’m just old enough to remember how this, and Israel’s bombing of Tripoli to try and prevent the evacuation of Fatah forces, made the city a byword for hopelessness and violence, now, it seems, largely forgotten. Al-Hout is also open about the various attempts on his life during his political career – by countries hostile to the Palestinian cause, but also at times from factions within his own movement.

Al-Hout’s writing style has some of the formality (sometimes pomposity) of many political memoirs; he regularly refers to his background in journalism, and I had to wonder occasionally if the somewhat leaden style was imposed by the translators. But it is lightened by flashes of humour and humanity, and although he takes his role in the PLO very seriously, Al-Hout is comparatively humble about the limits on his power and influence. This makes My Life in the PLO very readable (I got through much of it lying in the bath on Boxing Day), as well as being an absorbing tour through 70 years of Palestinian history and politics.

Al-Hout’s memoirs have also been reviewed here:
Electronic Intifada
Cairo 360
A World to Win
Friends of Al-Aqsa
Morning Star
and:
Race & Class

Photos, 1948

Posted 20 Dec 2011 — by Sarah Irving
Category Art, Middle East, Palestine, Politics

When you’re looking for one thing, often you find something else, equally interesting and distressingly diverting. Today, I came across two examples of the work of John Phillips, the photojournalist who worked for Time-Life for several decades mid-twentieth century.


The first is this rather horrible image, captioned ‘A 13-yr-old Arab boy lying dead on street of Haifa while flies swarm over him’ on the Getty Images website. The child’s head is obscured by a bucket, his shows have come off, and a passing British soldier looks down, his face completely devoid of expression.


The second image, taken about a month later, shows the two senior Rabbis of the Old City of Jerusalem negotiating the surrender of the Jewish community there to Arab League forces. I found it on a website entitled ‘Ben Atlas‘, but what caught my eye was a note in Hebrew added by the website owner, said to be from an Israeli internet forum, and translated thus: “The Rabbis of Jerusalem Rabbi Israel Mintzberg, my grandfather, head of the old city Jewish Court and the Sephardi Rabbi is Rabbi Hazan. Both went in self-sacrifice with a white flag to surrender despite the Haganah commanders objecting and even firing at them because the heads of the [Jewish] government wanted the fate of the people of the Jewish quarter to be that of the people of Masada, that they all will die.”

Which is an interesting perspective.